Wednesday, January 30, 2008
Just desserts, Peaceable's menu #6
Tuesday, January 29, 2008
Vivi Cooks #10 over Two Days
We are a potato-leek soup household, and this version of potato-leek soup was particularly good. I was surprised how much it sticks to your ribs, after pureeing and then sieving out the solids -- of course, the cup of crème fraiche doesn't hurt, for flavor or rib-sticking. I should add that we cheated and ate it warmed, not chilled. It is January, people!
The Chicken, Basque-style was also very tasty. Brother asks at every meal how much work the dish was to make, and takes effort into account alongside flavor. In other words, the Guinea Hen dish, while tasty, was marked down due to the vastly more than usual number of pans and pots to cook, and the hours and tediousness of preparation. This Basque Chicken, however, was really no more difficult than any pan-fried chicken. (Well, aside from the usual Cordon Bleu extra pans and warming plates.)
I really liked the Rice Pilaf, more so apparently than the Bride did. Easy and aromatic. I too made it with brown rice (but ran out, so about 1/3 of the rice was brown Jasmine rice, so perhaps that helped the aromaticity). The recipe called for a huge amount -- I didn't think about that when I was cooking. However, it is plain enough that we can serve the leftovers with other food later this week.
Monday, January 28, 2008
The Bride Triumphs Over Pots and Pans, Menu 10
However, the Poulet Basquaise was really good. It was the kind of meal I often cook, but it was particularly delicious. It also dirtied several pans and platters and left the cooktop (where it spattered) looking horrible.
The rice pilaf was ho-hum on its own, but a pleasant accompaniment. Maybe it would have been better had I used the recommended butter and white rice. Brown rice and a judicious omission of butter from the chicken and rice, made it healthier. I think some saffron might have been a nice addition.
The apple tart was also really delicious - the under layer of applesauce with a bit of vanilla and sugar - added an important depth of flavor without making the crust soggy. It also dirtied yet another pan. I cleaned the cooktop surface before making the apricot glaze (another dirty pan and strainer) for the apple tart, so you see a pristine background for this picture. I will do that method again, despite the extra step of making applesauce, because it was worth the effort.
I used the food processor to make the pastry and to slice the apples evenly. Yah, technology!
Pineapple Sideways Sorbet
(Sort of like Pineapple Upside Down Cake, but different). I made the pineapple sorbet a few weeks ago, but I accidentally made a movie rather than a photo. And the image was sideways and I can't rotate movies, so I didn't include it. But, why not show you. I really recommend everyone try it. It was so satisfying and I felt like a real professional when I created the shell. Our ice cream freezer didn't freeze it hard enough, so it oozed over the sides, but it was good.
Sunday, January 27, 2008
Falling Behind, but, though limping, still in the game
The creme Anglais was very straightforward. I've definitely been learning that technique. I should have made it yesterday, of course, because it needs three hours to chill. As a result, we will eat it for dessert tomorrow. After our double portions of mussels, we were very full, and didn't feel like more. So I haven't finished the raspberry coulis yet. We decided to use frozen raspberries rather than pay $7!!! each for two trays. I'm excited to make a coulis. We saw a lot of that on French menus, and I loved them all.
The sequencing of the two dishes was easy. One of the early lessons (2, 3?) was a sequencing nightmare for me, but I seem to have gotten better at it. Mind, tonight I was only doing two of the three dishes.
I still haven't done the pineapple sorbet (lesson on sugar syrups) from lesson 4. Have either of you done it?
Wednesday, January 23, 2008
The Bride Makes Onion Tart
I made the Onion Tart last night, and it was good. The men liked it. I had 1/20 sliver of the tart because even that was 4 weight watchers points. So now I'm all caught up - except for one of the Bavarian Cremes, and I'm going to pass on that one.
Tuesday, January 22, 2008
Vivi Reflects
In response, or just continuing the conversation that the Bride began, let me mull over my reactions so far to this whole Cordon Bleu thing.
Lessons learned: At every dinner, Brother asks me, What did you learn this meal? Why did they have you make this dish? What's significant about this dish? I do my best to answer, but often I don't know. Last meal, for instance, I inferred that the method of cooking the onion soup was the same as the onion tart, except for one I added liquid and the other I plopped it in a pastry shell and added custard. See other lessons for the custard.
But generally, I am sort of learning. I fault the cookbook for not explaining things more -- I still am not confident at all about Crème Anglaise, what might go wrong, how to make it right. I was very burnt (so to speak) with the Mouclade, not realizing until later that the mussels just weren't cooked -- because the book didn't mention at all about what a "cooked mussel" should look or act like. If there were a teacher-chef looking over my shoulder, I am sure I would have failed several lessons, but at least she or he could explain what went wrong, where.
Flavor: While some things have been truly delicious (the Truite aux Amandes, the roast chicken, the fish cassoulet and actually, the sauce for the mussels), the majority of the dishes I've found to run towards the bland and tasteless. I apparently don't like veal (not liking any of the veal dishes so far); many of the starters are a waste of time for me, just filling me up; about half the desserts have been tasteless. Perhaps this is a matter of flavor-preference (in a pinch, I choose Chinese, Indian or Mediterranean food over, well, over all other ethnic cuisines), or more likely it is due to not cooking them right in the first place (see above, and below).
Fat: Maybe this is where things are going wrong. I just cannot bring myself to use as much butter and oil as called for. Most of the time, it's okay (things sauté and don't stick to the pan) but maybe the flavor I'm not detecting in so many of the dishes is due to under seasoning them with fat.
Effort: What a lot of effort! I am a frequent-bowl user as it is, pre-measuring ingredients even for chocolate-chip cookies or beef stews. But this is almost absurd! If we were in a class where someone else did the dishes, or we had a killer dishwasher, it would be okay, but every meal has an hour or more of dishes attached to it. And frankly, I'm not sure the flavors are worth the work (for instance, the guinea hen dish, which was fine, would have been just as fine cooked all in one dish I believe).
Complexity: Related to effort, I find most of the menus almost too complex for me. I have started making the starter or the dessert on another day, and that is more doable, although it means I have to cook a complex meal more often than just Sunday.
Conclusion: All the gripes aside, I am enjoying the exercise and the discipline. The kids are learning about France and French food (in bits and pieces, and of course they don't eat any of it). I've got a couple of new dishes in my repertoire, both based on fish, which I like the sound of.
Lessons learned: At every dinner, Brother asks me, What did you learn this meal? Why did they have you make this dish? What's significant about this dish? I do my best to answer, but often I don't know. Last meal, for instance, I inferred that the method of cooking the onion soup was the same as the onion tart, except for one I added liquid and the other I plopped it in a pastry shell and added custard. See other lessons for the custard.
But generally, I am sort of learning. I fault the cookbook for not explaining things more -- I still am not confident at all about Crème Anglaise, what might go wrong, how to make it right. I was very burnt (so to speak) with the Mouclade, not realizing until later that the mussels just weren't cooked -- because the book didn't mention at all about what a "cooked mussel" should look or act like. If there were a teacher-chef looking over my shoulder, I am sure I would have failed several lessons, but at least she or he could explain what went wrong, where.
Flavor: While some things have been truly delicious (the Truite aux Amandes, the roast chicken, the fish cassoulet and actually, the sauce for the mussels), the majority of the dishes I've found to run towards the bland and tasteless. I apparently don't like veal (not liking any of the veal dishes so far); many of the starters are a waste of time for me, just filling me up; about half the desserts have been tasteless. Perhaps this is a matter of flavor-preference (in a pinch, I choose Chinese, Indian or Mediterranean food over, well, over all other ethnic cuisines), or more likely it is due to not cooking them right in the first place (see above, and below).
Fat: Maybe this is where things are going wrong. I just cannot bring myself to use as much butter and oil as called for. Most of the time, it's okay (things sauté and don't stick to the pan) but maybe the flavor I'm not detecting in so many of the dishes is due to under seasoning them with fat.
Effort: What a lot of effort! I am a frequent-bowl user as it is, pre-measuring ingredients even for chocolate-chip cookies or beef stews. But this is almost absurd! If we were in a class where someone else did the dishes, or we had a killer dishwasher, it would be okay, but every meal has an hour or more of dishes attached to it. And frankly, I'm not sure the flavors are worth the work (for instance, the guinea hen dish, which was fine, would have been just as fine cooked all in one dish I believe).
Complexity: Related to effort, I find most of the menus almost too complex for me. I have started making the starter or the dessert on another day, and that is more doable, although it means I have to cook a complex meal more often than just Sunday.
Conclusion: All the gripes aside, I am enjoying the exercise and the discipline. The kids are learning about France and French food (in bits and pieces, and of course they don't eat any of it). I've got a couple of new dishes in my repertoire, both based on fish, which I like the sound of.
Monday, January 21, 2008
Lesson 8: Turned Vegetables, French Meringue
Soupe à l'Oignon Gratinée
(Gratinéed Onion Soup)
Truite aux Amandes
(Trout with Almonds)
Pommes à l'Anglaise
(English-Style Boiled Potatoes)
Oeufs à la Neige
(Snow eggs with Caramel and Crème Anglaise)
(Gratinéed Onion Soup)
Truite aux Amandes
(Trout with Almonds)
Pommes à l'Anglaise
(English-Style Boiled Potatoes)
Oeufs à la Neige
(Snow eggs with Caramel and Crème Anglaise)
Onion Soup: When Les Halles, the famous Paris food market, was in the center of the city, late-night merrymakers could be found sitting shoulder to shoulder with butchers eating onion soup from midnight to dawn in busy bistros. This combination of cheese, bread, and onions was said to restore strength. Today Les Halles is gone but gratinée lives on, no longer the midnight meal of yore but a popular first course during the winter months in Paris...
Trout: This recipe is one of the rare French savory dishes that use almonds. It is, in fact, a variation on a classic truite meunière (trout with nut-brown butter) -- the difference being the almonds...As here, trout cooked this way is always served whole with lemon, boiled potatoes and freshly chopped parsley...
Potatoes: In France, anything that is simply boiled is said to be à l'anglaise, English-style. Unlike their English counterparts, however, French chefs typically "turn" their vegetables before boiling them to ensure even cooking...
Dessert: Sometimes called "snow eggs"... this dessert is standard bistro fare...
Trout: This recipe is one of the rare French savory dishes that use almonds. It is, in fact, a variation on a classic truite meunière (trout with nut-brown butter) -- the difference being the almonds...As here, trout cooked this way is always served whole with lemon, boiled potatoes and freshly chopped parsley...
Potatoes: In France, anything that is simply boiled is said to be à l'anglaise, English-style. Unlike their English counterparts, however, French chefs typically "turn" their vegetables before boiling them to ensure even cooking...
Dessert: Sometimes called "snow eggs"... this dessert is standard bistro fare...
Vivi gets back on her feet
My presentation leaves something to be desired, I know. In the case of the trout, none of us were looking forward to it -- the onion soup filled us up. So I just left it on the warming plate and threw the almonds, parsley and lemons on top of the fishy pile.
About turning: It seems a waste of time and potato to me. I did clean them up a little bit -- and indeed they looked better. We fried up the bits in peanut oil, as chips for the children, and tha worked pretty well.
The Bride Makes A Vow
I will definitely add this to my personal repertory. Although, 10 TBSP of butter means I won't cook it very often.
The dessert was fabulous. I had intended to do angel hair from the caramel, as the picture in the book shows. But I didn't and the just plain caramel sauce was really yummy. I love custard so much and the little meringues had such a wonderful texture in the mouth - like eating clouds. Hmmmmmm must try this with the custard colored sky blue. It would be like eating the sky.
Peaceable finally starts another lesson
The midwestern Bleus have fallen in CB behind due to weekend conflicts and Christmas congestion. Or maybe it was just being wiped out after the last cookathon. But last night we took a baby step and prepared the Onion Tart from lesson 6. I actually made two tarts because I had two 7" tart pans, rather than one 9" one. So, why not! We found both delicious and worth having in the repetoire. I added mushrooms to the second tart, and the first tart, with its long-simmered, almost caramelized onions, was just lovely and sweet. We had steamed asaparagus alongside.
We ate at 10:00PM because I was out shopping until 7:30, so, yes, the deliciousness may have been affected by hunger.
Thursday, January 17, 2008
The Bride is Bossy
At the risk of being a bossy big sister, I thought I'd offer some advice on timing, because I seem to have less trouble than others with this.
So, Timing: make the soup and grate the cheese on Saturday (or
ahead of time ayway). On Sunday, heat it up and put it together
before serving.
The Pomme a l'Anglaise - peel and shape the potatoes Saturday night or Sunday morning and leave them in salted water in the fridge until you want to cook them. See Note below about these.
Oeufs a la Neige: The custard is made ahead of time - maybe Saturday or maybe Sunday morning. It needs to cool in the bowl you are going to serve it in. The meringues can be done ahead, too.
So: Saturday - make onion soup and grate cheese. make creme anglaise and refrigerate. If desired, shape the potatoes.
Assuming you want to serve everything pretty much at once, instead of returning to the kitchen between courses:
Sunday morning, after a leisurely breakfast.
1) make the meringues and put aside to drain.
2) If you didn't do the potatoes Saturday, pare and shape potatoes (more later about shaping them) (you
could omit the shaping, too)
Take a break until a hour before dinner.
Before dinner
3) reheat the French onion soup and while it's getting hot,
4) make the caramel up to the point where it says 'when the liquid
stops sputtering, set over low heat an dcook until the caramel
redissolves and is syrupy. Keep it in a warm place - maybe in a dbl
boiler over warm water, so it's ready to finish at the last minute.
5) put the potatoes on to boil.
6) preheat the broiler, put the butter in the pan for the trout and
turn it on
7) prepare the trout by dredging in flour, place in pan
8)while it's cooking assemble the onion soup - bread and cheese
9) turn the trout
10) put the soup under the broiler
11) put on the second batch of trout,
12) When the gratin looks lovely, remove the soup from the broiler.
13) make the butter sauce.
14) drain the potatoes, which will be done by the time the trout is
cooked.
15) after eating the trout, return to the kitchen finish the
caramel. Assemble the dessert by putting the meringues on the
custard and doing the caramel thing.
I think that should work.
If you have Sous chefs (I don't) I would assign one of them the assembly and cooking of the onion soup, then you only have to think about potatoes and trout. Or, have the youngest sous chef (if under 12) assemble the onion soup, and an older one broil it.
About the turning - that is the shaping of the potatoes. This is something I've tried once. It's fiddly, but cool. I think it could get fairly easy if I get enough experience. I'm determined that I'm going to master it, so I am happy to have this opportunity. Here's what I've learned: It doesn't matter what size potatoes you start with - just make sure the chunks are all about the same size-ish. It's easiest to use a vegetable parer and run it down the sharp edges of the veggie, just to round it a little. Then, for bigger changes - say to make the ends a little pointier, I might use a paring knife or I might use a veg. peeler. Jacques Pepin demonstrated on the tv show Jacques and Julia. You might see if there is a video of him online showing how to do it. It's much clearer than the illustration in the book.
I'm not sure this will be helpful, but I've tried.
PS. I'm not doing the soup. I made a beautiful Onion Soup Gratinee last week and I still have some in my fridge.
So, Timing: make the soup and grate the cheese on Saturday (or
ahead of time ayway). On Sunday, heat it up and put it together
before serving.
The Pomme a l'Anglaise - peel and shape the potatoes Saturday night or Sunday morning and leave them in salted water in the fridge until you want to cook them. See Note below about these.
Oeufs a la Neige: The custard is made ahead of time - maybe Saturday or maybe Sunday morning. It needs to cool in the bowl you are going to serve it in. The meringues can be done ahead, too.
So: Saturday - make onion soup and grate cheese. make creme anglaise and refrigerate. If desired, shape the potatoes.
Assuming you want to serve everything pretty much at once, instead of returning to the kitchen between courses:
Sunday morning, after a leisurely breakfast.
1) make the meringues and put aside to drain.
2) If you didn't do the potatoes Saturday, pare and shape potatoes (more later about shaping them) (you
could omit the shaping, too)
Take a break until a hour before dinner.
Before dinner
3) reheat the French onion soup and while it's getting hot,
4) make the caramel up to the point where it says 'when the liquid
stops sputtering, set over low heat an dcook until the caramel
redissolves and is syrupy. Keep it in a warm place - maybe in a dbl
boiler over warm water, so it's ready to finish at the last minute.
5) put the potatoes on to boil.
6) preheat the broiler, put the butter in the pan for the trout and
turn it on
7) prepare the trout by dredging in flour, place in pan
8)while it's cooking assemble the onion soup - bread and cheese
9) turn the trout
10) put the soup under the broiler
11) put on the second batch of trout,
12) When the gratin looks lovely, remove the soup from the broiler.
13) make the butter sauce.
14) drain the potatoes, which will be done by the time the trout is
cooked.
15) after eating the trout, return to the kitchen finish the
caramel. Assemble the dessert by putting the meringues on the
custard and doing the caramel thing.
I think that should work.
If you have Sous chefs (I don't) I would assign one of them the assembly and cooking of the onion soup, then you only have to think about potatoes and trout. Or, have the youngest sous chef (if under 12) assemble the onion soup, and an older one broil it.
About the turning - that is the shaping of the potatoes. This is something I've tried once. It's fiddly, but cool. I think it could get fairly easy if I get enough experience. I'm determined that I'm going to master it, so I am happy to have this opportunity. Here's what I've learned: It doesn't matter what size potatoes you start with - just make sure the chunks are all about the same size-ish. It's easiest to use a vegetable parer and run it down the sharp edges of the veggie, just to round it a little. Then, for bigger changes - say to make the ends a little pointier, I might use a paring knife or I might use a veg. peeler. Jacques Pepin demonstrated on the tv show Jacques and Julia. You might see if there is a video of him online showing how to do it. It's much clearer than the illustration in the book.
I'm not sure this will be helpful, but I've tried.
PS. I'm not doing the soup. I made a beautiful Onion Soup Gratinee last week and I still have some in my fridge.
Monday, January 14, 2008
Lesson 7: Choux Pastry, piping
Profiteroles au Gruyère (Choux Puffs with Gruyère Cheese)
Pintadeaux au Chou (Guinea Hen with Cabbage)
Crème Fraisalia (Strawberry Bavarian Cream)
Pintadeaux au Chou (Guinea Hen with Cabbage)
Crème Fraisalia (Strawberry Bavarian Cream)
Choux pastry is most frequently garnished with sweet fillings, such as pastry cream (éclairs) or ice cream (profiteroles). Here, however it is filled with a cheese-flavored béchamel called mornay sauce. These savory chees pastries can be served either with drinks or as a first course...
In France cabbage is a popular garnish not only for pork but also for game birds and dark-fleshed domestic fowl. Here guinea hens and sausages are served together on a bed of cabbage. Each of the three elements is cooked separately, then combined only for the final cooking. The results is a dish in which complementary tastes are juxtaposed, rather than blended together as in stews or one-pot meals.
Note: The taste of guinea hen, commonly available at French markets, is often compared to taht of pheasant or partridge...
Henri-Paul Pellaprat was one of France's most influential chefs in the early years of the twentieth century. He wrote books on cooking that are now classics, and for many years he taught at Le Cordon Bleu. One of his many creations was this dessert. Essentially a bavarian cream to which a fresh strawberry puree has been added, it is still as popular at the school today as it was when Pellaprate first invented it.
The Bride Reflects
I've been thinking about the menus we've done so far. I do feel that I'm learning something. I couldn't cook Creme Anglaise in my sleep, but I can do it fairly easily. I've made it many times over the years, but months go by between. Pretty much every Christmas I make it to put on plum pudding and.... maybe, sometimes, I do it one other time a year. But doing it repeatedly has been really good. And the profiteroles were fun, too. I've done them before, but this time I reaped the benefits of that earlier experience. I'm anxious to try it again.
Fat: These meals are so full of fat that it's a little scary. It's an old-fashioned way of cooking, most people today are more aware of the amount of fat in the food they are cooking. I've been pretty faithful to the recipes (though I cut out about 1/3 of the fat in the Pintadeau au choux, by some very simple changes). I'm trying to lose weight and doing the CB menu each week is interfering. I'm still trying to figure out how to do it right.
Cooking methods: There are easier ways of doing some of the recipes. For example, the pate brisee is easily made with a food processor. I haven't done the Onion tart yet (see Fat, above), but I will try out the recommended method just for the fun of it.
The other thing about the menus is the way they organize foods. Usually there are 3 foods, a beginning course, a main course, and a dessert. And they are all very substantial. In fact, there's too much food for us. I've been handling that by cooking the starter separately, as a meal in itself. But that leaves the problem of creating a meal around a main dish and a dessert. Not that it has been difficult so far.
I'm interested what you, Peaceable and Vivi, think as you reflect on what you've learned so far.
Fat: These meals are so full of fat that it's a little scary. It's an old-fashioned way of cooking, most people today are more aware of the amount of fat in the food they are cooking. I've been pretty faithful to the recipes (though I cut out about 1/3 of the fat in the Pintadeau au choux, by some very simple changes). I'm trying to lose weight and doing the CB menu each week is interfering. I'm still trying to figure out how to do it right.
Cooking methods: There are easier ways of doing some of the recipes. For example, the pate brisee is easily made with a food processor. I haven't done the Onion tart yet (see Fat, above), but I will try out the recommended method just for the fun of it.
The other thing about the menus is the way they organize foods. Usually there are 3 foods, a beginning course, a main course, and a dessert. And they are all very substantial. In fact, there's too much food for us. I've been handling that by cooking the starter separately, as a meal in itself. But that leaves the problem of creating a meal around a main dish and a dessert. Not that it has been difficult so far.
I'm interested what you, Peaceable and Vivi, think as you reflect on what you've learned so far.
The Bride is unexcited.
I drove 60 miles, maybe more, to pick up the Guinea fowl for lesson #7. I also bought a Cornish game hen so I could compare the two. It was worth knowing because the Cornish game hen is waaay less fattening than the Guinea fowl.
The dish, Pintadeaux au choux, was disappointing. The savoy cabbage was cooked and cooked to death. The whole thing seemed greasy. The Guinea fowl was a bit tough, though nicely flavored. The Cornish game hen was pretty tender, but bland. I enjoyed the contrast of the polish sausage with the other flavors, but on the whole it was a disappointment. And it was fussy to make. Did I miss something? Did I overcook it somehow? I'm not quite sure what the lesson was.
I much preferred the rotisseried pintade we had in France, when Peaceable was living there.
The Bavarian Cream..... I didn't use strawberries, I used frozen raspberries. First of all because I had them and second because I prefer raspberries to strawberries unless they are fresh. This time I didn't wreck the Creme Anglaise. On the other hand I caught the whipped cream just one nanosecond before it turned to butter, so folding it into the custard and fruit puree was really more of a stirring pretty vigorously. But it was divinely delicious nevertheless. I served it in a lovely etched glass bowl of Alec's mum's. You can't see how pretty it is in the picture. Take my word for it.
I served it with Brussels sprouts (which I overcooked dreadfully) and a white bean puree. Just as I thought the meal was done, I realized I had not made any starch and I thought the meal needed it. So I rapidly created the white bean puree - It probably took 5 minutes and it was my favorite part of the meal.
Not CB, but it was so good I'll give you the recipe: Take a can or two of white beans ( I used Navy beans, but if I'd had Cannellini, that would have worked. And I drained them, then heated them with a little chicken broth and some crushed garlic. When they were hot, I put them in the food processor with 2 TBSP of olive oil and 2 TBSP of lemon juice or white wine vinegar. Puree, then adjust seasonings and put in a dish with parsley strewn haphazardly on top.
Sunday, January 13, 2008
Vivi, Tired, Reports on Lesson #7
Another 5-hour day of cooking. Am I slow or are these dishes over-prepared?
The Profiteroles. At least they tasted good. The choux puffs -- of which we had very many -- were excellent. The children, surprisingly, did not like them, but the adults liked them very much. I wish there was some way to keep them warm, because they definitely lost that special edge after they cooled, and they will be hard to serve at a party because my style is not to be cooking as people arrive.
(An interjection, as I remember the last two parties we've hosted, in which I was cooking until an hour or two after the party started. Okay, maybe profiteroles will work just fine at parties.)
I am looking forward to making cream puffs and eclairs, now -- these were surprisingly easy. The shorter Sous-chef (Boy-child) piped all but the first couple of puffs, even. The taller Sous-chef (the Texan) filled them, and learned that the method is to put holes in all the puffs first, and then start stuffing them. It also helps if you have a small tip on your pastry bag (we had only a mid-size tip).
The Pintadeaux. The dish was tasty, but -- as cooked this time -- not worth cooking again. The Polish Sausage was excellent. But the cabbage was too soggy (my fault? or plain cabbage, not Savoy -- it was, again, blanched and then boiled for an hour). And the hen was fine, but generally bland. We all agreed that with a more gamey bird (as called for in the recipe) the flavors might all work together better. I'm interested to hear how the poultry comparison came out Chez Bride.
A question for the better-travelled: Have you ever had lardons, that you knew (which we made for this dish)? Is French bacon different from American? I used simple center-cut bacon (not even thick cut, because I was using what was in the fridge). We boil the little bacon cubes -- which made sense to me, removing extra fat. But then you fry the things in butter and oil! Huh? I fried them, but with just enough fat to keep them from sticking to the pan at first. Does someone have a background explanation?
I have become an object of compassion to my house-mates, giving up virtually my whole Sunday, every week, to cooking this meal. I am so glad I didn't save the dessert for today, too. I think for a while, I am going to make the first course on another day from the main course, and possibly the dessert on a third.
(An interjection, as I remember the last two parties we've hosted, in which I was cooking until an hour or two after the party started. Okay, maybe profiteroles will work just fine at parties.)
I am looking forward to making cream puffs and eclairs, now -- these were surprisingly easy. The shorter Sous-chef (Boy-child) piped all but the first couple of puffs, even. The taller Sous-chef (the Texan) filled them, and learned that the method is to put holes in all the puffs first, and then start stuffing them. It also helps if you have a small tip on your pastry bag (we had only a mid-size tip).
A question for the better-travelled: Have you ever had lardons, that you knew (which we made for this dish)? Is French bacon different from American? I used simple center-cut bacon (not even thick cut, because I was using what was in the fridge). We boil the little bacon cubes -- which made sense to me, removing extra fat. But then you fry the things in butter and oil! Huh? I fried them, but with just enough fat to keep them from sticking to the pan at first. Does someone have a background explanation?
I have become an object of compassion to my house-mates, giving up virtually my whole Sunday, every week, to cooking this meal. I am so glad I didn't save the dessert for today, too. I think for a while, I am going to make the first course on another day from the main course, and possibly the dessert on a third.
Vivi Works Backwards on Lesson #7
We had a guest for dinner last night. I was low with a cold and not up to the complete menu, so we had The Texan's excellent Beef Pot Pie and the Crème Fraisalia for dessert.
I didn't make it in time to get in a full 3 hours of chilling, so the Cream was more the texture of American pudding than an upright Teutonic Bavarian Cream. Last weekend, I had substituted raspberry freezer jam; this weekend I substituted strawberry freezer jam. (And then realized we had purchased some early California strawberries that afternoon, so used those for decoration.)
I thought the dessert a little soggy, not so much in texture as in flavor, which was a bit bland. It may have been the extra sugar in the jam (low-sugar jam, not terribly sweet) made the overall dessert too sweet. But I was in the minority -- the rest of the adults thought it quite tasty. (One child felt chocolate syrup necessary, but I believe that to be personal taste, not a reflection on the flavor of the dessert.)
Tonight I'll make the Choux and the Game (not Guinea) Hen
Lesson 6: Pâte Brisée and Pâte Brisée Sucrée; Bavarian Creams
Tarte à l'Oignon
(Onion Tart)
Mouclade
(Mussels with Wine and Cream Sauce)
Bavarois à la Vanille, Coulis de Framboise
(Vanilla Bavarian Cream with Raspberry Coulis)
(Onion Tart)
Mouclade
(Mussels with Wine and Cream Sauce)
Bavarois à la Vanille, Coulis de Framboise
(Vanilla Bavarian Cream with Raspberry Coulis)
Onion tart is a speciality of Alsace...(from Le Cordon Bleu at Home, 1991)
Mussels are popular throughout France, but perhaps nowhere more than on the Atlantic coast above Bordeaux, where this delicious dish comes from...
Recipes for bavarian cream, or bavarois do not appear in French cookbooks until the early 19th century. The preparation was popularized by Carême ("the king of chefs and the chef of kings") and is alos used in making charlottes -- another Carême contribution to the classic repertoire. The main difference between the two is that ladyfingers are used to line the mold before adding the bavarian cream for a charlotte, whereas for a bavarois, the cream is poured directly into the mold.
Saturday, January 12, 2008
The Bride Makes a Weird, but Wonderful Meal
The Profiteroles are really kind of a finger food - they would make good appetisers, if I ever made appetisers. The Son of COG pronounced them delicious - 'kind of like posh home-made cheese puffs'. He also thought they would taste nice with a bit of smoked salmon or prosciutto on the side, or top, or inside, or somehow. I had made choux pastry before and it always amazes me that it works and seems so fancy schmancy. I didn't have a plain 1/2 in tip, so I used something else and it didn't seem to matter. The mornay sauce was divine - mostly because the gruyere I used was divine.
Then, deciding that we needed something else, I made a Pear and Chocolate Cake from Nigella Lawson and served it with vanilla ice cream and home made chocolate sauce. Not Cordon Bleu, so no picture.
Friday, January 11, 2008
What menu? What supplies?
Okay, you slow-pokes, what are you cooking this weekend? Moule o pintade?
I went to get my guinea hens today and discovered that the shop where I had confidently seen them a few weeks ago, doesn't carry them after all. They have game hen, a reasonable phonological mistake of mine when the menu was a few weeks out and I was just getting a general lay of the land. In fact, they had not heard of guinea hen.
They do regularly carry duck, game hen (which is Rock Cornish game hen), quail, poussin (which is to chicken as lamb is to sheep), an assortment of older chicken and capons, and quail eggs. So I'm set for other poultry, if and when we come to it.
I chose to get two game hens, because I was there and they were there. I will call the other gourmet market in town to see if they carry guinea hens, but I'm doubtful. Even if they do carry them, I'm not sure I'll buy them. Then I'll have to cook both sets (although I have cooked game hen before, on a Thanksgiving I celebrated alone. It was roasted with cranberry glaze. I could make that again some other night). But it would be fun to taste guinea hen, whatever that is.
I did find my very own Charlotte Mold today, at the fourth cookery shop in town. Saved me the $10 postage from amazon.com, but it is a plain aluminum mold, not the lovely red-gold-coppery look of the amazon photos. I am sure the Bavarian Cream with Strawberries will taste even better from this pan than from the soufflé dish I've been using.
I went to get my guinea hens today and discovered that the shop where I had confidently seen them a few weeks ago, doesn't carry them after all. They have game hen, a reasonable phonological mistake of mine when the menu was a few weeks out and I was just getting a general lay of the land. In fact, they had not heard of guinea hen.
They do regularly carry duck, game hen (which is Rock Cornish game hen), quail, poussin (which is to chicken as lamb is to sheep), an assortment of older chicken and capons, and quail eggs. So I'm set for other poultry, if and when we come to it.
I chose to get two game hens, because I was there and they were there. I will call the other gourmet market in town to see if they carry guinea hens, but I'm doubtful. Even if they do carry them, I'm not sure I'll buy them. Then I'll have to cook both sets (although I have cooked game hen before, on a Thanksgiving I celebrated alone. It was roasted with cranberry glaze. I could make that again some other night). But it would be fun to taste guinea hen, whatever that is.
I did find my very own Charlotte Mold today, at the fourth cookery shop in town. Saved me the $10 postage from amazon.com, but it is a plain aluminum mold, not the lovely red-gold-coppery look of the amazon photos. I am sure the Bavarian Cream with Strawberries will taste even better from this pan than from the soufflé dish I've been using.
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